It is not property with a picket fence and a guard dog. It is a space created by relationality, constantly visited by insects, mice, squirrels, bears, spirits, winds and rain, plants and medicines, and this visiting forms the network that is the container of the home.
– Rehearsals for Living, Leanne Betamosake Simpson and Robyn Maynard
The walls and windows in the place I loved were important and intentional and meant a lot to me, but the home itself extended well-beyond them. In winter I loved the walls because they kept the heat in, in summer I loved the doors and windows wide open to allow for cool breezes to blow through and easy access to all the creatures I loved. Kids walked in randomly alongside other people’s pets, insects and sometimes even birds.
Before the foundation and walls were built the land was covered in thick muck that I tried to dig into by hand to create ponds, but I didn’t have the muscle. The skunk cabbages thrived there, and frogs croaked with pleasure between March and June.
The fence we eventually put around the property was made of reclaimed cedar sticks strung together with wire, solid enough to keep out deer and dogs, but wispy enough to offer a clear view of the street. Some might have said it left our home, with its giant windows, a fishbowl, but I liked the gaps in the fence. I liked talking through them. Sometimes I yelled through them if I saw a kid do something dangerous or if I needed one to come home but couldn’t be bothered to actually go looking for them.
I liked walking through the backyard to gather balls so I could throw them over the north side of the fence to the neighbour who liked to burn off steam by practicing his slap shot. I liked pulling blackberries on the east side so that I could catch up with the neighbour on the other side of that fence while she worked on her garden. I especially liked the gap in the north-west corner. It required adept puddle jumping to access, and provided a perfect gap for small children to sneak through.
I loved the place beyond the four walls and four fences.
I loved the street that was unpaved for many years, and the magical little forest on the other side of it. I loved walking through the largely uninhabited properties to the street with an actual ocean view, to a sun dappled little spot that attracted cats and neighbours of all ages. I loved trekking down the two-hundred and fifty-odd stairs to the shoreline and the beach made of fist-sized pebbles, perfect for crab hunting. It’s best for swimming before noon in summer (that’s when the sun hits it), but only if the tide’s not too low, because that’s when stones come alive with semi-aquatic insects.
Every July, one of the waterfront property owners puts out a floating dock. I’m not sure that they like other people using it but, without consistent human visitation the dock turns into a sunbathing spot for otters. It doesn’t take the otters long to make the dock stink so bad no human would want to go there.
One sunny summer afternoon, a group of neighbours picnicked on the beach together. The kids were sitting on the dock when a seal came rushing towards them. The kids jumped off before the seal jumped on. They started swimming towards the shore but didn’t get very far before a whale came by and breached, knocking the seal off the dock. As the seal swam for its life, so did the kids. Their parents screamed from the shoreline.
This was one of those moments when the creatures we lived among reminded us that they were in fact, wild.
“There are no predators here,” was a common refrain.
What we should have said was, “there are no predators here right now.”
According to a local historian, years ago, there were wolves on the Island. But they hunted and killed the dogs, so the first settlers set out deer meat with strychnine and poisoned all the wolves.
The strychnine-laced meat was clearly effective because that’s the only mention I ever heard about wolves on the island aside from the infamous wolf-dog that made headlines throughout the winter of 2011. For months, people made reports about pets disappearing, then a man discovered his dog’s carcass in the woods being eaten by what he described as a wolf-like creature. After that, local pet owners lived in an apparent state of terror. Reports from that time claim that locals were so nervous for their dogs that they kept them on-leash while walking. Grainy photos showed the creature’s resemblance to a German Shepherd, and as a hybrid, conservation officers declared that the animal was not their problem to deal with. The local vet failed in his months-long mission to tranquilize it. By April, two dozen cats were listed as missing on the local animal welfare organization’s website. Local officials procured a permit allowing for a contractor to shoot the animal despite wildlife regulations that would normally prohibit gun-use. Then in May, a trapper from the mainland lured the beast out of the woods with coyote bait and killed it in one clean shot. The settlers won, yet again.
More recently, a cougar has made itself comfortable on the island. It’s gotten bold, and locals have posted footage of it strolling calmly and gracefully across their decks in broad daylight. There’s no mistaking this animal with anyone’s pet. It’s wild, confident, and seems to be thriving in this exurban paradise. Pets don’t seem to be falling victim to it, but the local deer population is taking a hit. A few people have voiced their concern about potentially dangerous encounters with human beings, especially small children, there are plenty of people urging calm and pushing statistics that show how unlikely this kind of incident is. Reactions to this creature seem more measured, and tinged with awe, than reactions to the wolf-dog. Still, I’ve heard that some people no longer feel safe letting their kids stand at the roadside to wait for the school bus. Peace and safety are deeply valued here.
You move here because you want to raise free-range, nature-loving kids. You want less fear in your life, less noise, fewer streetlights and more neighbourly goodwill. You’ll find bucketloads of all that but also, sharp edges. Not only do collective passions and tempers run hot, but predatory behaviours lurk below the surface. Somewhere on the island, maybe deep in the woods, maybe in a concrete foundation there’s evidence of a young woman named Jodi who was last seen walking out of a party with her ex-boyfriend back in the summer of 2009. Someone knows where she is, and someone knows what happened to her, but even all these years later, no one is talking.
No doubt some social scientist has done a formal study on small, tight-knit communities demonstrating this dynamic -where people protect one another, even when they shouldn’t. They know that what they say will reverberate through their network and the ripple effect of pain could very well tear the whole thing apart. When you love something so much, it’s hard to remember that your job is actually to let go, to let things break if they must, to evolve and grow into a whole other beautiful thing. No matter how tight you hold on, the strands of your web are going to shift anyway.
If I’m not blaming the ferry, I’ll stand back and tell you my connection to home is a casualty of that constant and necessary shifting delicate yet super-strong threads connecting people to each other, to animals and trees and all the rest of it.
While my feelings about the place ebbed and flowed throughout my time there, I held onto the connecting threads like a life line. I kept planting seeds and watering them. The memory of it all is vivid and real, and so is the ache of its absence. Most of what held me in place and that I held in return feels out of reach now. I can’t water the garden or engage in the gratifying torture of hacking away at inch-thick back blackberry vines. It’s an imagined past now, one I can’t go back to.
Home looks different now. It’s a roof over my head and a world of untapped possibilities.
Your memories are intense, rooted, vivid, and alive with every sensory detail. I felt the muck between your fingers and the ache in your chest when you wrote about the threads fraying. This is a powerful piece on place, connection, and what it means to belong, not just to a home, but to a whole ecosystem of memory, relationships, creatures, and loss.
The way you wove in the wild, the seals, whales, cougars, otters, even the wolves, was so compelling. You made me think about how home is never static and how sometimes it’s the absence of something, a missing girl, a disappearing animal, a door we can’t walk through anymore; that’s just as defining as what is there.
That last paragraph really got me. The idea that home is now a roof and untapped possibility is hopeful but also carries the grief of letting go. Thank you for sharing this, Meribeth!
xo
Captured so well, old neighbour… Those were the days!
Damn you’re good.
I felt deeply connected to every single sentence you wrote. I didn’t skip a word like I often can do when reading in this age of overwhelm. So like engaging with any wisdom passage your words opened a door, a secret embrace, a smile of mutual recognition and inevitably the poignant sadness of letting go and engaging patiently with no secured assurance that life will ever feel quite so precious and yet….
Home is also where you leave yourself. You don’t get to decide where you belong. A place gets to decide to claim you. You were claimed here a long time ago and we haven’t let you go. The Welsh word “cynefin” means “your multiple places of belonging.” it says that you are a person in a habitat, and your different identities is tied to a place. You are different person in the Yukon than you are here, but you’re not a tourist to our island. Whenever I see you here, it will always be greeted with “welcome home” and that part of you that knows it to be true will light up.
I hear the bittersweet longing yet an emerging acceptance in your words.
It’s so hard to reconcile leaving a place that felt so right for so long to the unknown. Even now my ego is screaming we have made a mistake, you won’t find this again. Go back, go back..
Yet a quieter voice is urging me on. Will it be right? I don’t know. But I know Bowen is a safe bubble with its own ‘system’ and I’m yearning for more. For a while anyway.
Sending you care as you continue to navigate your own journey.
A great read. You’ve echoed my feelings for the island, especially missing it so much while acknowledging you cannot return although when we visited last April, it was tempting. I met with the sort of women friends with whom you can discuss anything. When asked why we wouldn’t ever return to live, I couldn’t really explain it except that at my age, I really don’t want to put myself through such an upheaval again (moving countries that is). I wish that you and your family continue to enjoy your new homeland. Thanks for writing the above. All the best, Pam D
What a beautiful piece. The ache of moving on. All too familiar.